Hiking Volcan Fuego in Guatemala

Week 8 – Antigua

This week’s journal entry is all about the 24 hours of experience hiking Volcan Fuego in Guatemala. This experience deserves its own blog. This has to be my highlight so far. I am not sure if my words can truly sum up the magical experience I had.

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Arriving at the Starting Point

From the city of Antigua which is stunning, cute, and filled with charm. We set off early to reach the starting point of the hike. The very bottom of Volcan Acatenango. This was where we had our safety briefing and picked up some warm clothes. We chose to go with one of the more expensive companies because after cutting costs on tours before; I really didn’t want to on this one. We chose Soy Tours.

What sold us on this one was the fact it was one of two that camped on the sunset side of the volcano plus the cooked pancakes in the morning. Yes, someone runs up the volcano in the morning with pancakes so they are waiting for you for when you return from sunrise.

Starting the Hike

Anyway, let’s not skip ahead. We have to talk about the hike. Oh wow, it was a hike. It was tough. There is no sugarcoating just how hard I found this. The altitude and the steep incline of the volcano really didn’t do me any favours. We hike all day through clouds upon clouds. The cloud forest we passed on our way up was misty and magical adding to the atmosphere. The clouds kept the temperature down which made the hike just a little bit more bearable. I couldn’t imagine making it to camp if that sun was blaring down on us too.

Volcan Fuego erupting at Dusk
Volcan Fuego Erupting at Dusk

We had regular breaks on our way up, the guides were great at setting a good pace for us all to follow. I do have to admit I did opt to pay extra for someone to carry my bag. Simply because we had to carry all our own water. This meant no backache. Plus, I was already unfit so the extra weight wouldn’t have worked out. When we all reached camp the clouds were still hanging about. Therefore, we all took a well-earnt rest.

When the Clouds Lifted

After, a little rested and only a little one because it wasn’t long before we could hear Volcan Fuego erupting. We were about to have the best luck because just like that the clouds that had been there all day started to slowly lift. Revealing Volcan Fuego in all its glory. Then, from that moment on the volcano didn’t disappoint. It kept going. It erupted as the sunset gave us a view for miles across the exposed valley. A valley lined with volcano after volcano. We were finally weeping the reward from my toughest hike to date.

Lava Flowing from Volcan Fuego at Nightime
Volcan Fuego at Night

Mother nature was showing off and I was all here for it as dusk turned to dark. Although, it was cold and I was happy. Hiking Volcan Fuego in Guatemala was amazing and I just sat there watching the volcano into the night just like it was a television. The night was clear and Fuego was giving us a show shooting lava up into the air, then watching it tickle down the sides. It didn’t seem real. This moment is definitely one of those surreal moments in life.

Hiking for Sunrise

Hiking up for sunrise was a difficult one, tired from yesterday and I had a lack of sleep. However, the lack of sleep was worth listening to the volcano erupting all night long. There were some very loud bangs ringing out around the valley. However, this part of the hike was more like scrambling over rocks than following a clear nicely craved-out trail. Yet, I made it up for sunrise (just) but I did miss the break of the day. Again, Volcan Fuego was performing spluttering ash cloud after ash cloud up into the sky.

Coming Back Down

Volcan Fuego Erupting at Sunrise
Sunrise Over Looking Volcan Fuego

You would think it was easier, it was in some ways but at this point, my legs were jelly so just trying to stay upright and not slip on the stones was the mission when coming back down. Also, this time the sun was out so we got to see all the views we missed out on, on the way up. Oh my… they were pretty! All in all what an incredible experience.

Summary of Hiking Volcan Fuego in Guatemala

Wow. What a truly raw experience something I didn’t think I would see in my lifetime. The company provided great guides, good food, and a perfect camp. I fully recommend using them. This is a unique experience camping on the side of one volcano whilst watching another erupt. There are no words, to sum up, the fierceness of mother nature.

Read about another exciting Central American adventure here!

Guatemalan Adventures

Week 7 – Flores Island to Lake Atitlan

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A ruin temple over 60 metres high
Temple at Tikal National Park

After a long journey from Caye Caulker, we finally arrived in Flores, Guatemala. It was time to start the Guatemalan adventures. On Flores, we only went and grabbed some food and settled in for the night.

The next day we explored the ruins of Tikal National Park. These ruins were amazing. They are situated in the middle of a jungle where these impressive Mayan ruins are scattered throughout acres upon acres of land.

As I am a budget traveller we opted to explore the ruins by ourselves. It was doable. However, we did nearly miss the famous Temple 5! Wondering through this magical jungle you were surrounded by wildlife. Birds filled the air with their tune and monkeys swung from tree to tree.

The monkeys howled loudly, they were everywhere. I feel I spent more time watching them than looking at the ruins. This experience of wandering ruins without information boards would have been better with the guide. This is so you understand the history of the ruins. Here, I would recommend getting the guide plus it wasn’t too much extra money anyway.

Guatemalan Adventures to Lanquin

Waterfall Pools lined with lush green forest during the Guatemalan adventures
Waterfall Pools at Semuc Champey

After, exploring the ruins, the next day we took a tourist bus to Semuc Champey. Semuc Champey was quite the trek to get to. It included a 12-hour bus ride through very windy mountain passes multiple times. Therefore due to the nature of the journey this ride was hell. I couldn’t tell you how many mountain passes we crossed to get there but it was unpleasant. The windy roads seemed to last forever and worse was knowing that we would be doing it all over again to get to Lake Atitlan.

Semuc Champey in my opinion was not worth the torturous journey to get there. I had seen it online with a lot of hype yet for me, it really didn’t live up to it. Normally, I am not disappointed with nature but I felt that I had seen better. The hike was a tough one and long to get to the viewing platform that overlooks the natural limestone bridge. All in all this leg of the journey could be skipped. Also, It was not cheap getting to and from Lanquin nor do hostels have cooking facilities. Therefore, for a traveller on a strict budget, this trip really starts to add up.

Exploring Lake Atitlan

green trees filling th ebackdrop with a natural pool of green and blue water
Semuc Champey

Last up for this week was exploring the many small villages that sit along Lake Atitlan. Arriving after dark was scary. The ‘ferry’ port is in a very random, dark street. Plus, that skipper was very reckless and sped across the dark lake. We made it but those bumps were something else. The small villages each offer a different feeling and are worth checking out each of them.

It was nice to kick back and relax for 4 nights. At this point, we have moved so quickly through Guatemala that it was a welcomed break to be in one place. We even finally managed to do our laundry which at this point was everything that I had in my suitcase.

The next chapter is all about continuing the Guatemalan adventures with a unique experience in Antigua, Guatemala.

Caye Caulker in Belize

Week 6 – Caye Caulker in Belize

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Well It Is Finally Time

New country. New attitude. A new positive one. Goodbye, negativity. I’ve got this. I feel like the tables are going to turn for us and what better place to do it than on an island? A Caribbean island at that. Are you ready to hear about Caye Caulker? Is it on your list? Well, I can tell you it should be.

a nurse shark swimming in crystal clear blue water
A Nurse Shark

As soon as I stepped off that ferry from Belize City I felt my shoulders instantly relax. It was a rush of emotion draining from my body. I had been craving a nice relaxed island for a while and this hidden gem did not disappoint. As soon as we started walking through the main street everyone was friendly. No intense sales pitch like Mexico. Everyone was relaxed here. I felt like I could breathe again.

This island instantly impressed me and things only got better from there. The next day we had a boat tour booked. This was a tour of the Great Blue Hole. This boat trip was amazing. It was pricey but worth every penny. We got unlimited drinks and snacks. There were three snorkeling sessions lined up for scuba diving if you are qualified.

The First Snorkel

The first snorkel was around the Great Blue Hole and the barrier reef. The guide was great and pointed out everything. He was so knowledgeable and nice. We snorkeled along the wall of the blue hole which was filled with pretty colourful corals and plenty of marine life. I felt at home swimming around in the sea.

The sun was shining. Perfect. After, the snorkelers got dropped off at Half Moon Bay. This tiny bit of paradise. It was an uninhabited island with a beautiful coastline. You know the one you picture in your head when dreaming of that deserted island. This was that place. We walked along the dock where we were greeted by a baby lemon shark in the shallows.

We Hadn’t Even Entered The Water and Saw A Shark

Half moon bay with palm trees looking out to crystal blue waters
Half Moon Bay

The shark coupled with the first snorkel I was even more hyped up. This time the snorkel was a drift snorkel. That suited me fine. I like laying back and relaxing. Drift snorkel means that you let the current take you. We were greeted by an abundance of sea life. Everything from tiny colourful fishes to Barracuda and a big reef shark. What another great experience.

Now, time for lunch on this perfect island. I couldn’t picture a more idyllic place to fuel up. After, there was a short walk to see the red-footed boobies at their nesting site. They nest out in the open at the top of trees and my god they smell bad, really bad!

Back To The Boat

We set off for the third and final snorkel in an area called the aquarium. Yes, this place did live up to its name. The clouds were starting to roll in overhead so it was kinda a race back to the boat. Head down take it all in and kick those flippers. This is where I saw shrimp in the sea for the first time. Two of them quickly swam along. It was amazing. That was a great end to the day! I couldn’t complain at all.

Just don’t do my rookie mistake and forget your rash vest or not reapply suncream. SUNBURN HURTS!

The Seven Stop Snorkel Tour

A bright orange and pink sunset over the sea in Caye Caulker in Belize
Sunset on Caye Caulker

This tour took us around Caye Caulker in Belize. First, you look for manatees. We were unsuccessful. Next was the clamshell graveyard. The best area was Hol Chan Marine Park. A protected area where sealife was beaming. We even saw a turtle and a stingray.

Another stop was Shark Alley, this does have a bit of history as originally this was where the fisherman dumped the fish they didn’t need therefore causing all the sharks to gather here. You get to swim with nurse sharks here which was cool. However, some companies feed them which I disagree with. The company I went with did not do this.

The Only Downside

However, the only downside to Caye Caulker is that they feed wild animals. A bar had stingray feeding to help get tourists to spend at their place. Although, it is a good place for sunset. You can enter the grounds for free. Also, here is an artificial home for seahorses. You have to look very very hard for them. There is also a place called “the Split”. A great place to hang out and chill for the day.

All in all, this was the experience I remember traveling used to be like. I was happy again to be on the open road exploring and learning about new cultures. Finally, with a positive mindset, it was time for the next destination.

Read about other adventures from my travel journal here!

A World Wonder in Mexico

Week 5 – Valladriod to Bacalar

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A World Wonder in Mexico

Finally, I was about to cross off another world wonder from my list. This time it is the world wonder in Mexico. I was excited. We changed our plans slightly which made it easier to get to ‘Chichen Itza’. This is something I enjoy about being on the road you are able to change plans at the last minute. I feel having fewer plans allows you to keep the freedom that comes with exploring the world that we live in.

We Based Ourselves in Beautiful Valladriod

the main temple ruin of Chichen Itza. The world wonder in Mexico

Valladriod is a cute town a little like Puebla with its colourful buildings. It was hot here. Very hot. Walking around in the midday sun was just a no-go. Therefore, we chose to get the 7 am colectivo to Chichen Itza because the earlier you go the fewer tour groups and less heat. It’s a win-win. We managed to get our pictures without people in and more importantly enjoy the site without the crowds.

I will say that the price they charge for the number of ruins you can actually access is extremely high. It really does feel like a tourist trap. If it wasn’t one of the wonders of the world. I would miss it entirely and find lesser known ruins to visit. Again, we didn’t do a tour because we are budget backpackers. However, there was a lack of information boards. This seemed to be a theme across Mexican tourist attractions. Therefore, online research is a must to understand the sites you are visiting.

Our Second to Last Stop Was Touristy Tulum

Me on a mopped

Okay. Tulum was the first place I was meant to be visiting two years ago. I was excited however quite frankly I wasn’t sold on Tulum once I arrived. Before, we even arrived we heard bad stories involving the local authority against backpackers. This automatically put us on edge.

Therefore, due to the stories, we took out the money we needed in Valladolid. So, we wouldn’t need to use an ATM. Apparently, backpackers were followed home from these. Then, pulled over for a traffic violation. So, just be careful and aware when on the roads.

In My Honest Opinion

I was not too fond of Tulum. I really thought I would be. Maybe a few years ago before the tourist boom, it was a magical place. However, now it is overrun by beach clubs, expensive restaurants, and rip-off taxis. Okay. If you enjoy beach clubs and have a lot of money to burn through then you may have an entirely different opinion from me.

We had so much go wrong during Mexico that the scooter going wrong was the final straw for me. I was ready to get out. Start fresh in a new country at this point in time. These small things always going wrong really did influence the negative feelings I have towards Mexico.

The Amazing Lake Bacalar

A boat perfectly framed by two beams floating on lake bacalar

At least Mexico had one last surprise up her sleeve. This beautiful lake Bacalar was made up of seven different shades of blue water. The massive lake was warm, crystal-clear water, and hosts an impressive sunrise and sunset. It was great to spend the day relaxing heating up in the sun and then cooling in the water, trying to unwind and shake the negative start to this adventure through Central America.

Check out the other journal entries in my travel journal here!

Caribbean Coast of Mexico

Week 4 – Cancun to Cozumel

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We Finally Made it to The Caribbean Coast of Mexico

A day later than planned but we were finally on the ferry over to Isla Mujeres. I was excited to see what all the fuss was about. So far on the Carribean coast of Mexico; we had been ripped off by the bus driver and the ferry sales lady sold us first-class tickets. Even though we didn’t ask for it. This was not a great start to this coastline after the turbulence 48 hours we just experienced. Oh well, we were at the beach again. My happy place.

First Was Making Sure We Still Had

a yellow and orange sunset over the clam sea on the Caribbean coast of Mexico
Sunset on Isla Mujeres

our hostel booking. We contacted them to move the booking and they kindly agreed. Maybe our luck was changing. Someone did something good for us finally. We enjoyed the grounds of the hostel while waiting for check-in. However, when check-in came. The problem started. They wouldn’t let us have the room. After, back and forth for 2 hours they finally agreed to honor it. It was a lot of unnecessary stress. We had to cancel our tour. Also, cancel, re-book then cancel another hostel. Mexico had been filled with these little hiccups. It was sucking the enjoyment out of travelling. Yet, I guess travelling has both good and bad experiences. So hopefully our luck will change soon.

Finally in Our Room

It was time for sunset. With a south-facing beach a short walk away, we headed there. A massive sand area that was all for free (for a change). There were no beach clubs. We found a spot to sit and finally relax on this beautiful Island. I can’t come to the beach without having a dip. The amazing crystal clear blue waters of the Caribbean Sea were warm and welcoming. I automatically distressed and washed away the day we just had. The sunset also showed up for us. It was very impressive. A perfect end to a stressful day.

Exploring Cozumel

A view overlooking a seaweed filled beach
San Martin Beach in Cozumel

Next up, was the Island of Cozumel. I was here to see if scuba diving was something I could enjoy. I love marine life and want to be comfortable underwater. This is because I want to experience the underwater world. My instructor was great and put me at ease straight away. Overall, it was an enjoyable experience with Deep Blue Diving and I would recommend them. For all the stresses we’ve had on this trip, there have been some great experiences in between.

The Bike Ride From Hell

two bikes resting in the sand on the beach
The Bikes at the Beach

Now it was time to find a free beach. I am not a fan of beach clubs. Plus, as a budget traveller those places can eat into your budget drastically. So, we set off listening to the advice of the bike shop guy. This was to be our first mistake. He said ’45 minutes that way to a free beach’. This was not the case. At this point, we should have turned around. This was mistake number two. Also, we had applied no suncream, obviously, this was mistake number three.

It took three hours to reach a beach under the hot sun. That meant another three hours to home. We ended up cycling half the island. 47km. We were sore. Sometimes it is only you that can get the blame when something isn’t that great. This one was our mistake and I own that. However, it didn’t make it any less stressful.

The Caribbean Coast of Mexico

This coastline in my opinion is very very touristy. A very different vibe to coming through the centre of the country. It was all rush, rush, rush. The prices here charge top dollar for even the shortest taxi journey. I did feel more of an American tourist vibe rather than a backpacker vibe. I am looking forward to leaving Mexico and all the negativity it has brought us.

My other entries in my travel journal can be found here!